The Sierra de Bernia is one of the natural treasures that the Marina Alta entails and that marks the border with the Marina Baixa. It is part of the set of coastal and pre-coastal mountain ranges, located between the municipalities of Benissa, Xaló, Calp, Alcalalí, Tàrbena, Callosa d'en Sarrià and Altea, whose full name is Sierras de Bèrnia y Ferrer. They are a protected enclave that covers 2843 hectares, mainly in the areas of Benissa and Xaló.
With the imposing Sierra de Bèrnia as the protagonist, these mountains extend with a northwest-southeast orientation and altitudes that exceed 1000 meters. This unique design provides special bioclimatic conditions, with notable differences between shaded and sunny areas. It acts as a transition between the humid regions of the north and the drier regions of the south. Furthermore, human intervention throughout history has contributed to an extraordinary landscape and habitat diversity in this protected area.
In 2001, it was included among the Places of Community Interest (LIC) of the Valencian Community. Subsequently, the high landscape value of the complex granted it, since 2006, the title of Protected Landscape of the Valencian Community. This nomenclature has been selected as the most appropriate to safeguard the natural, cultural and landscape values of the mountain range.
Next you have an index with all the points that we are going to deal with.
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- 4.1
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Where is
From the Marina Alta, the Serra de Bèrnia is south of Benissa and Xaló. There are various routes to visit it, however, the Las Marinas Management Unit highlights two in particular, specified below.
Routes
With a network of well-marked trails, the mountain range offers a variety of hikes for all skill levels, from relaxing hikes to challenging climbs. One of the most notable routes is the path that goes from Pinos to Callosa, Xaló and Altea la Vella.
Following the Altea la Vella path (PRV436), you can easily immerse yourself in the shadow of Bèrnia and admire Berdiola, one of the best preserved mountain landscapes in La Marina. From the Passet, you will enjoy a spectacular panoramic view of the Marina Baixa before descending towards Altea la Vella along the Cova de la Serp path.
PR-CV 7 Bernia
The PR-CV 7 route is the best known in the Serra de Bèrnia. The route is circular and essential to get to know it thoroughly. It connects with the Altea la Vella road at two points. This route takes you through the famous Forat, where you can explore the ancient Fort de Bèrnia and discover the cave paintings.
To access these routes, from the urban centre, head towards Alicante on the N-332 and take the road towards Xaló CV-750. Then, continue towards the "Pinos-Bèrnia" CV-749 access road until you reach Les Cases de Bèrnia, where your adventure on foot will begin.
- Km: 8,65 km
- Duration: 03 hours and 20 minutes.
- Difficulty: medium.
- Accumulated elevation gain: +425 meters.
PR-CV 436 Pinos Hermitage - Font del Garroferet
The route from the Hermitage of Pinos to the Font del Garroferet (PR-CV 436), is accessed from the urban center of Pinos, Benissa, towards Alicante on the N-332 and then take the detour towards Xaló CV-750 . Afterwards, it will be necessary to follow the access road to Pinos C-749 until you find the path that leads to the Ermita de Pinos.
- Km: 12,50 km
- Duration: 05 hours and 15 minutes.
- Difficulty: medium.
- Accumulated elevation gain: +785 meters.
Recommendations
- Keep dogs on a leash.
- Follow the trails.
- Respect the fauna.
- Bring water.
- Respect the flora.
- Go in company.
prohibitions
- Make fire.
- To camp.
- Motor vehicles.
- Littering.
Points of Interest
In addition to its notorious natural value, the Serra de Bèrnia y Ferrer is another witness to the long history lived in the Marina Alta. In it, the human presence is confirmed among its multiple places with cave paintings, terraces for agriculture or livestock, or with constructions of high interest. Below are the highlights of the mountain range:
The forat
The Bèrnia forat is probably the great tourist attraction of the mountain range. It is an impressive natural passageway sculpted into the rock that extends for approximately 21 meters. Also recognized as "the Comptador de les Cabres", this tunnel allows you to cross the majestic Sierra de Bèrnia. The geological wonder crosses the crest of the mountain range, linking the two slopes and facilitating access between them.
Since time immemorial, the Forat de Bèrnia has been a vital path used by the shepherds of the area, providing a strategic passage through the mountain. This iconic tunnel is not only a natural wonder, but also a historical testimony of the connection between the two regions it separates.
Bernia Fort
Another of the most prominent places in the protected landscape of Benissa and Xaló is the Fort de Bèrnia. It was erected in 1562, on the southern side and at an impressive 800 meters above sea level, in the part of Callosa d'en Sarrià. Its purpose was to safeguard the coast and the interior from possible uprisings by the Moriscos, who had previously sought refuge in these mountains to escape religious persecution.
The fear of incursions by Ottoman corsairs also motivated its construction, providing a strategic refuge for the Christian population in case of need. For this reason, Philip II entrusted the task to the renowned Italian architect Juan Bautista Antonelli, resulting in the imposing structure known as the Bèrnia Fort.
It is a rectangular fort, with a central patio and rooms distributed over two adjacent floors. In addition, it housed a chapel for the spiritual needs of its occupants. Its defenses were reinforced by triangular bastions at each of the four corners, while a moat surrounded the entire perimeter, offering additional protection against possible invaders.
However, the life of Fort de Bèrnia was short-lived. After the expulsion of the Moors, Philip III ordered its demolition in 1612. Today the vestiges of this imposing fortress still remain. Therefore, the Callosa d'En Sarrià City Council put out to tender the necessary actions to consolidate the structure and restore it.
Paintings
At the foot of the imposing ridges that define the landscape of Bèrnia, located at about 850 meters above sea level, is the Peña de l'Ermita del Vicari site. This houses a shelter about 15 meters long adorned with cave paintings. These works belong to schematic rock art and date from the Neolithic era, offering a unique window into the past of humanity in this region.
Not far away, in the shade of the Sierra del Ferrer, is the Cova de ses Lletres, another archaeological treasure that bears witness to Neolithic ancestors. It is possible to find others near Pinos, in the municipality of Benissa, within the Bèrnia Protected Landscape.
Terraces, houses and fountains of Bèrnia
Throughout the mountain landscape you can see various terraces, tangible testimony of the work of the Moors, who reached their peak in the 18th century. These terraces extend along the slopes and are the result of human ingenuity to take advantage of even the steepest terrain. Most of them were dedicated to the cultivation of vineyards until the dreaded phylloxera forced their abandonment.
It is also common to find the ruins of old corrals, rural homes and shelters for livestock, as well as numerous fountains that played a vital role in the development of its ancient inhabitants. Finally, it is possible to visit the snow refrigerator at the top of the shade, probably erected in the 18th century.
Characteristics and natural environment
The Sierra de Bèrnia y Ferrer stands out for its ecological diversity and its proximity to the sea. These mountains offer a unique setting where a wide range of habitats and extraordinary biodiversity converge, including numerous endemic species that make this place their home.
It hosts a variety of ecosystems ranging from the highest peaks to deep valleys, creating a diverse and fascinating morphological environment. It is no surprise that these mountains have been recognized and protected for their exceptional value. In 2001, the Consell included the area among the Places of Community Interest (SCI) of the Valencian Community, in compliance with Directive 92/43/EEC of the Council of the European Union on the Conservation of Natural Habitats and Fauna and Wild Flora.
Habitats
The Sierra de Bèrnia y Ferrer offers a fascinating mosaic of habitats and rich biodiversity. Its distinctive geomorphology, with steep slopes and rocky peaks, makes it one of the most imposing mountains. Furthermore, its proximity to the sea and its orientation give it a sunny side and a shady side.
It stands as a biogeographic boundary between semiarid and dry-subhumid ecosystems. This geographical uniqueness translates into an extraordinary variety of flora and fauna.
Among the notable habitats are the calcicolous rocky slopes, home to endemic species such as Chaenorhinum crassifolium subsp. Crassifolium and Biscutella montana, Saxifraga corsica subsp. Cossoniana, among others. Xerophytic Mediterranean grasslands are home to species adapted to dry climates, such as Leucanthemum gracilicaule. The presence of micro-reserves of flora reflects the uniqueness of these habitats. This flora is reflected in the four flora micro-reserves that exist.
On the other hand, it is possible to find the following habitats:
- Thermo-Mediterranean and pre-steppic shrublands: they adapt to dry climates with strong water deficit, acting as a replacement stage for larger plant formations. In this habitat there are species such as Pistacia lentiscus, Chamaerops humilis and Euphorbia dendroides.
- Karst calcareous meadows: These are priority habitats formed by open and xerothermophilic pioneer colonizing communities, which colonize poorly developed calcareous stony soils. They are dominated by small plants, mainly from the Crassulaceae family, such as Sedum sp.
- Substeppic areas of grasses and annuals: they are xeric pastures, more or less open, made up of various grasses and small annual plants adapted to dry environments.
- Western Mediterranean and thermophilic landslides: they are accumulations of stones typical of mountain slopes with scattered vegetation that takes root between the rock fragments. In this habitat, for example, endemic species such as Scrophularia tanacetifolia or Conopodium thalictrifolium are found.
- Thermophilic ash trees: scattered specimens of Fraxinus ornus are found, often accompanied by individuals of Acer opalus subsp. Granatense and Ameliancher ovalis. They tend to develop in microclimatically humid environments such as shady areas, valley floors, foothills or calcareous cliffs.
- Thermo-Mediterranean riparian galleries and thickets: they are shrubby formations of Mediterranean boulevards and banks dominated by oleander (Nerium oleander).
- Quercus ilex and Quercus rotundifolia forests: these are Mediterranean sclerophyllous forests dominated by holm oak, which occur dispersedly at medium and high levels of the Bèrnia mountain range.
- Mediterranean forests of Taxus baccata: these tree formations are dominated by yew and are usually subordinate to other forest species or relegated to topographically favored environments. The population located in the Bèrnia mountain range is currently the subject of population recovery and reinforcement programs.
Vegetation
The Sierra de Bèrnia i Ferrer is a botanical treasure with a great floral diversity and unique species. Its strategic northwest-southeast orientation, its impressive geomorphology and high altitude make it a natural sanctuary that houses a wide variety of plant communities and habitats.
The peculiar geographical layout of the Sierra de Bèrnia i Ferrer acts as a natural barrier that channels humidity from the north, creating distinctive microclimates on its shady and sunny slopes. This phenomenon, accompanied by the proximity to the sea and the abundance of limestone soils, contributes to further enriching the landscape and ecological diversity.
On the shady slopes, sheltered from the sun, are the four micro-reserves of flora, among which the Forat de Bèrnia, Cases del Cantal, Arc de Bèrnia and Ombria de Bèrnia stand out. Here, the grasslands give way to the presence of bulbous species, annual plants and specimens of yew, some of the southernmost in the Valencian territory. In addition, relict species such as the king's crown and numerous Valencian, Ibero-Levantine and Ibero-North African endemisms are intertwined in a botanical tapestry of incomparable beauty.
On the other hand, on the sunny slopes, exposed to the sun and drought, the Mediterranean maquis emerge, where species such as palmetto, rosemary, mastic, kermes oak and heather thrive in harmony. At higher levels, a forest area of Aleppo pine extends, while in the rocky areas isolated specimens of oak and rock species of exceptional value can be seen.
It is essential to understand the historical relationship between the vegetation of the Sierra de Bèrnia and man. Over the centuries, human intervention has left its mark, from intense forestry exploitation to crop clearing. Although these activities have decreased today, the vestiges of cultivation terraces and old dry stone terraces remind us of the area's agricultural past.
Fauna
The mountain range is also a wildlife sanctuary that is home to exceptional biodiversity. This natural treasure stands as a point of LIC community interest, thanks to its ecological and geomorphological wealth.
What makes Bèrnia a refuge for a wide variety of species is the unique combination of its proximity to the sea, the diversity of habitats and microclimates, together with its imposing altitude that exceeds 1100 meters and its abrupt orography, make the Serra de Bèrnia in a magnet for wildlife.
The Serra de Bèrnia is part of the Special Protection Area for Birds SPA Muntanyes de la Marina. The rich birdlife of the mountains can be classified into several notable groups:
- Forest birds: among the species present, there are the European robin, the great tit, the capuchin tit, the chaffinch, the European treecreeper, the great tit, the papialbo chiffchaff and the green serin, among others.
- Birds of Mediterranean shrub vegetation: this category includes small passerines such as several species of warblers (capitoled, black-headed, long-tailed, etc.), the stonechat, the black redstart, the European goldfinch, the common partridge, various species of thrushes, the common wheatear, the soteño and montesino bunting, the common linnet, among others.
- Rock birds: these birds live on rocks, cliffs, rocky outcrops or cliffs. Featured species include wheatear, solitary rock thrush, rock martin and alpine accentor in winter. In summer, you can see the royal swift, the pale and common swift, the common and common swallow, and the house martin.
- Birds of prey: it is home to impressive birds of prey such as the Bonelli's eagle, the peregrine falcon, the common kestrel and the European short-toed in the summer months. You can also hear nocturnal birds of prey such as the tawny owl and the owl.
- Other notable birds: Species that can be found in the mountains include crows, the Eurasian wren, the Palearctic wren, the Lugano goldfinch, the common hoopoe and the wood pigeon, among others. Furthermore, during migratory or dispersive periods, some rarities can be sighted.
But the wildlife of the protected landscape is not limited to birds. Mammals such as wild boar, red fox, squirrel, badger, genet, hedgehog and marten find a safe home here. And on starry nights, a symphony of bats adds a magical touch to the atmosphere. The spring and summer months witness the hustle and bustle of the community of pollinating insects and reptiles, which give life to the fields and forests of the mountains.
Geology
The Sierra de Bèrnia y Ferrer is part of the Betic system and specifically the pre-Betic sector in the northern region of Alicante. Emerged millions of years ago due to the collision of the African and Eurasian plates during the Alpine Orogeny, these majestic marine limestone mountains were formed from sediments deposited in the ancient Tethys Sea, emerging approximately 15 million years ago.
The Serra de Bèrnia is characterized by being an anticline with an Oligocene-Aquitanian base that supports a Cretaceous-Eocene slipped structure. Towards the west, this anticline merges with the Sierra del Ferrer. On the other hand, to the east of Bèrnia, there is another anticline composed of the Solana and the Lloma Larga.
These structural units mainly exhibit two types of materials: marls at the base of the anticlines and limestones from different ages at the summits. These sedimentary calcareous rocks are of organic origin, formed by the accumulation of remains of the shells of marine animals.
The calcareous relief of the area is subject to various erosive agents, such as water, ice and wind. These agents have sculpted the mountains, creating karst formations such as caves and screes. Karstification, a fundamental process in the modeling of Bèrnia, occurs when water reacts with limestone, dissolving it and forming underground galleries, caves and lava flows.
In addition, heavy rains, especially during the fall, generate torrential flows that carry materials, causing accumulations and eroding the land. The Protected Landscape of the Sierras de Bèrnia i Ferrer is located in one of the most torrential areas of the Iberian Peninsula, which gives rise to impressive waterfalls and notable erosion processes.
Vegetation also plays an important role in shaping the landscape, with certain species growing in the crevices of rocks, contributing to their disintegration.
Images
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Surroundings of the Serra de Bèrnia
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Surroundings of the Sierra de Bèrnia
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Hikers at Fort de Bèrnia
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The view from inside the Forat de Bèrnia
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Slope and signage of the Serra de Bèrnia i Ferrer
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Landscape from the Sierra de Bèrnia
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Plant of the Serra de Bèrnia i Ferrer
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Plants and trees of the Serra de Bèrnia
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Rocks and surroundings of the Sierra de Bernia
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Sierra de Bernia Trail
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Trail in the Sierra de Bèrnia
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Signage of the Serra de Bèrnia i Ferrer
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Location of Fort de Bèrnia
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One of the peaks of the Sierra de Bèrnia
